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color cycle (slow)

Kistaro Windrider, Reptillian Situation Assessor

Unfortunately, I Really Am That Nerdy

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Icehouse Game Beta: Cascades
color cycle (slow)
kistaro
For those who don't know, an Icehouse game is a game played with Icehouse pieces, from Looney Labs. I have all nine stashes, so I can play almost any game.

Here's my own invention; insufficiently tested, so it's probably broken in a number of ways.


Cascades
For 2-6 players

Goal: To run all your opponents out of moves.

Equipment:
1 Icehouse stash per player, OR two stashes each for two players
2 or 4 player game: Chessboard
3, 5, or 6 player game: Eeyore's 3-Player Martian Chessboard, one segment
(Variant for 3 players uses a chessboard)
per player, assembled as normal

Set the chessboard up between players.

The game is played in two phases: Up and Down.

...---===UP===---...
Each player, in turn, places a pyramid of his/her color upright in any
unoccupied square of the board. This rotation continues until all pyramids
are used. (There will be a few empty spaces left on the chessboard- one per
player.)

...---===DOWN===---...
First turn of Down: The first player to drop a pyramid in the Up phase
chooses one of his/her pyramids and puts it down flat on its square,
pointing in any of the four cardinal directions. This and all moves MUST
point such that there is an upright piece exactly P spaces away in the
direction pointed, where P is the pip-count of the tilted piece. Pointing
DOES NOT wrap around the edges.

Future turns: The owner of whichever piece was pointed to last tips the
pointed-to piece over in one of the four directions to point to another
upright piece in the same manner as before. There's a catch...

If a player has NO LEGAL MOVE, that player has lost. He is removed from the
game, but his pyramids remain. A player chosen by the just-eliminated player
then goes back and tips over any piece of his color, like the first turn of
the Down phase.

If, at any time, all of a given player's pyramids are tipped over, that
player has lost the game.

A neutral pyramid- one which belongs to no player because said player has
been evicted from the game- can still be pointed to. If it is pointed to,
the player who made the move that pointed to that pyramid then tips over
that neutral pyramid. If a neutral pyramid has no legal move, then the
person who pointed to it has lost.

...---===NOTES===---...

If a player's last pyramid is pointed to, that player is effectively out.
Make that last pointing a good one.

It is a good idea to, if playing on a "normal" chessboard, rotate a piece
45 degrees when it gets pointed to until it gets actually tipped. This is
so players don't forget which piece is currently "active" in case of long
thinking pauses.

...---===VARIATIONS===---...
Try allowing diagonal tilts. (UNPLAYABLE)

Play a 3-player game on a regular chessboard with 4 stashes. There is one
neutral stash at the start. The Up phase is played regularly until all
non-neutral pieces have been dropped; players then take turns dropping
neutral pieces until all pieces have been dropped.


I know, the rules could be worded better... suggestions?

EDIT: Clarified rules in one spot, CHANGED WINNING CONDITION to repair a "Player 2 Always Wins" problem, changed one rule made obsolete by that previous change. 80-column carraige returns added because this is copied from the mailing list I sent it to.

EDIT: Modified continuing rules if a player is wiped out.


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That must be quite challenging to play - there won't be many turns before people start going out. What's the pip count? I didn't know what Icehouse pieces were before I looked at the site, but it doesn't look like they have pips.

Actually, people all tend to lose at once. I've changed the rules to repair the problem that the second player can ALWAYS win with no sweat. The only repair was to change the winning condition so the game changed a lot.

Pip-count is simply large=3, medium=2, small=1. They're small, but every Stackable Icehouse piece has a number of dots around the base on each side, in those numbers.

BTW- if this game is interesting, but you don't want to spend the $32.00 on an Icehouse set (plus international shipping) or even the $5.00 for a cardboard set that can't do as much since the bottoms aren't hollow, but still works for this, try

http://www.eblong.com/zarf/arcana-pieces.html

for "Icehouse cards" which work just fine for this game, since I don't use the stacking ability of the pieces. (They were originally designed for an Icehouse game called "Arcana," if you're wondering about the link. They got generalized.)

So if you want to take the afternoon to make the pieces, here's a how-to.

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